This is a question I get asked a lot.

I will admit my turntable doctor bias: I like turntables that respond well to TLC and are relatively easy to fix. Typically that means a good design and good materials, which also means that they’re likely to last.

November 2024 note: I am FINALLY updating this page. Apologies for the lag. I will try to keep updating this with more info. 

In general, these are reliably engineered decks and they keep their resale value due to their name being associated with the SL-1200 Mk2, the undisputed king of the DJ decks. The tonearms with removable headshells are very good for consumer grade decks and their direct drive designs were quite innovative. Some of their higher end models (like my baby that’s on the front page) are best-in-class playback systems. They are still in the game with the revival of their product line.

Models to look for:

The early “professional” decks: SL-1300, SL-1400, SL-1500, SL-1600, SL-1700, SL-1800. The original SL-1200, SL-1100 and 1100A are also excellent, although they can be difficult to find parts for. The SL-Q2 and Q3 are solid. The direct drives through about 1978 are generally good bets. In 1979, they introduced the SL-D1, SL-D2, and SL-D3 and sold tons of them. These are a bit more plastic-y but still perform well. The linear tracking direct drive decks are also generally reliable and sound good. The premium units in this line are the SL-10, SL-15, SL-7 and SL-QL1. If a Technics linear tracker isn’t working, it’s usually just the arm drive belt (PRB part # SCX2.9) that needs replacing.

Models that are great performers but have known problems:

The SL-1200 Mk2. There are millions of them out there, and a good number have issues with damaged lateral bearings. My hunch is that they were put in flight cases with the counterweights still on and chucked around un-gently. The good news is that (for now) we can still get new replacement arms (and many other parts too). The 1200Mk2s also have had some quirky issues that pop up with pitch. But these are almost always fixable.

The SL-1300Mk2, SL1400Mk2 and SL-1500Mk2. These have known issues with the cueing cam breaking due to design issues. The good news is thanks to 3D printing, these beauties can now be repaired. The bad news is that it’s a bear of a job. The SL-1600Mk2 is known for having a gear in the arm assembly that fails, but there are compatible replacements available. 

The SL-D1, SL-D2, and SL-D3 mentioned above will frequently have pitch issues due to oxidized wipers in the potentiometer. The problem is that getting to the pitch pot in order to clean it requires removing the entire assembly. Doable, but a bit intimidating.

Approach with caution:

SL-QD33 and SL-QD22 — The QD33 was in production for a long time (11 years!), so there are a good number of them in circulation. Many of these that I’ve seen have had the auto functions die due to control motors for the arm function not responding properly (same with the QD22). The good news: replacing the electrolytic capacitors and resetting the mechanism gets them functioning again. 

SL-BD20/20A, SL-BD22 — belt drive decks also with a long production run. These have frequent motor issues. The motors can sometimes be fixed. Sometimes not.

Common flaws to look out for on Technics models:

• Unsteady pitch caused by dirty pitch controls (this is an easy fix).
• Tracking issues on linear trackers caused by worn belts (also an easy fix).
• Bad solder joints on circuit boards; these can result in operational problems with auto-functions or pitch problems like runaway speeds. Can be very tricky to locate.
• Trashed lateral arm bearings, especially on DJ’ed decks. I can fix many of these, although it’s rather complex surgery.
• Bad motors on belt drive decks (these can often bed repaired — check YouTube for instructional videos).

I don’t know that Dual ever made turntable that was a poor performer. Even their weakest models can sound pretty good. But get familiar with the word “steuerpimpel.” You’ll likely need one if you want the auto functions to work.

Models to look for:

The fully automatic idler drive model Duals can almost always be restored functionally. My favorites are the 1219 and 1229. These are almost identical — the 1229 having a strobe light being the main difference. If you come across one that hasn’t already been serviced, it will likely need lube. DON’T FORCE ANY LEVER THAT DOESN’T MOVE EASILY! The speed selector and the single/multi lever parts can easily be broken if forced. The fixes on these models are not difficult if handled properly. They will need a rubber o-ring for the single-multi selector. And probably a steuerpimpel. Unlike other models, the idler wheels on 1219/29s rarely lose their grip. And they’re serious hi-fi performers. If you want a DIY refurb guide, they are available.

The 1019 can also be an excellent performer. More often than not, the idler wheel needs a resurfaced replacement. You can find those here. The TK-12 headshells can be flaky with connections, but there are far superior (if not exactly cheap) new aftermarket replacements available on eBay. Bottom line: while they usually require more effort and parts, the 1019s are well worth the effort to restore.

There are many lower price point 12xx idler units — the 1209, 1214, 1216, and 1218 being the most prevalent — that are all fairly similar under the hood. These can also be very good performers once restored. Some will need resurfaced or refurbished idler wheels. The 1228 is solid but be aware they removed 78 RPM on that model if that matters to you.

Models that are great performers but have known problems:

Belt drive Duals have an interesting design feature with the expandable (for pitch control) motor pulley. Common examples of these are the 1237, 1241, 1249, 1257, 1264, 505, 506, 521, 522, and 528. Not sure it was a great idea because the pulley mechanisms can get sticky and fussy with age. Also, the toothed belts between the controls and the pulley expanding mechanism can break or loosen. But like all Duals, they can be almost always be repaired with the right parts and attention and will sound really good. They’re just different.

Direct drive Duals have an excellent reputation for a reason. The German engineers were bound and determined to hold their own with the Japanese in this era. Common models are the 604, 621, 622, 701, 704, 721. These often have failed capacitors in the power supply and will appear to be dead. Most (but not all) will come back to life with those replaced. Really fantastic decks when they’re working.

Approach with caution:

Like I said, I don’t think Dual ever made an unworthy deck. But they made many price point models that skimped on design and/or materials and are thus harder to recommend. Common examples: 1009SK, 1010, 1015, 1210, 1211, 1212, and 1215. And the gray/silver plastic ones like the 1258, 1268 and 528 were built pretty cheaply and feel like it.